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As I am getting older, my affinity for shoes and bags is growing with my years. It is not necessarily the name, but the style and the feel, the look of bags and shoes that draw me to spend more and more on fashion. I spend time flipping through catalogues and websites, walking through stores, just appreciating the things I will never own for the financial burden of a shoe and bag obsession has caused a dip in my credit at a young age. However, the abundance of knock-off's for name brands, being sold at much more affordable prices, pose an obvious threat to the fashion aesthete. Just because they look the same, are they same? Who would know? Is the quality the same? The color? Because one brand creates a cute patent leather pump with a rounded toe, and soon after another is selling a shockingly similar shoe, has there been an instance of fashion fraud? Where are the fashion police, the crusaders of all things good and just? Who says what can be determined as having artistic integrity and or intellectual creativity? The moment an idea comes to one's mind, should they file for some sort of protection? The thought process and intellectual property law forever obscure the lines for all concerned about legal protection. Regardless of the medium, intellectual property law is a dynamic field and asks its noble followers to help untangle the messy web of ambiguity. Where do our thoughts and individual creativity meet at the crossroads of copyright and protection? In the fashion industry, one of the world's fastest growing entities as well as large supplier of creative material, intellectual property law and copyright are a new development in the protection of designs and details, sweaters and stitching. Whether in sketch form or in skirt, from the drawing board to the boardroom, fashion copyright is complicated. Can it be protected? When does an instance of 'substantial similarity' become imitation or worse, chargeable theft? Can the line be drawn? If copyright law is extended to include protection for fashion design, will the world of fashion be forever affected? The blurriness in the fashion design industry resulting from the almost counterintuitive cycle of fashion profits spurred by piracy makes it incredibly difficult to decide. Ultimately, copyright protection for fashion design is necessary and without protection, piracy will continue to hinder the progress of creativity and production as well as cause a discontinuity in what can be considered organic artistic thought.
tagged Culture Design Law art copyright fashion by jennifi ...on 29-NOV-06

 Mencken, Jennifer. A Design for the Copyright of Fashion." Diss. Boston College of Law, 1997.            

    http://www.bc.edu/bc_org/avp/law/st_org/iptf/articles/content/1997121201.html#fna

 

"A Design for the Copyriight of Fashion" was written by Jennifer Mencken in 1997. The essay, though short, covers some very important topics in regards to fashion copyright and protection of designs. The introduction considers that becuase the fashion industry is one of the largests and has no boundaries, economically or socially, it is hard to contain.

Mencken's essay discusses the reasoning behind not protecting designs and talks about the process from thought and conviction to pen and paper, and eventually, to the showroom and the streets. She briefly cites the ability for some fashion designs to be protected under Common Law, however, that angle is now since moot. Though the article was published in 1997, almost ten years ago, most of the information remains pertinent. Mencken discusses patents versus copyright and trademarks verus monopolies on fashion.

She continues to argue for the "Implementation of Fashion Design Copyright." She identifies that there is a "conceptual separability of fashion's artisict elements from the functionality of clothing." She cites the Copyright Act of 1976, allowing the line to be cast that fashion design is almost similar to writing, in respects, to protection. Conceptual separability versus the creative process is a major discussion in the paper.

She closes with a discussion on the scope of copyright and the "requirements for implementation." She says, " In creating a copyright system which recognizes the expressions of designers, many old fears, such as burdening the consumer and creating a marketplace monopoly, resurface. With tens of thousands of designers churning out work, it is easy to foresee chaos. How far does the copyright extend? For how long? What would constitute infringement?"

She closes with a discussion on the effect of copyright in fashion on the industry. She concludes that copyright on fashion should be a decision of the designers rather than the people who purchase their creations.

This article is particularly important to my thesis and argument for my paper as it attacks and answers questions about how copyright in fashion can and will affect the industry. This article is also important as it plays devil's advocate and expresses the concern with copyright and fashion and how the lack of copyright can be seen to have not affected the economic aspects of the industry.

tagged Culture Design copyright fashion by jennifi ...on 27-NOV-06
Winograd, Ben and Cheryl Lu-Lien. "Can Fashion Be Copyrighted?" The Wall Street Journal.
   
    12 September 2006.
 
 
 
This article, wrtiten by Ben Winograd and Cheryl Lu-Lien of the Wall Street Journal talks about the place of knockoffs in the fashion world and if it is possible to protect fashion with copyright. Published in September of 2006, the article jumps to the major question of copyright and fashion, is fashion an art worthy enough of copyright protection? The confusion lies in what makes fashion design different from writing, from other arts? The major difference is that the fashion design industry is a multi billion dollar industry whose fire is almost counterintuitvely stoked by the knockoff industry. Even with knockoffs aside, the fashion industry is plagued with the obvious copiers who claim to reference other works for inspiration.
The article continues to discuss how fashion design "has historically fallen outside the scope of copyright protection because it was considered a craft, not an art, dating back to a time when clothing served to simply cover the body." However, a new movement of high-end designers going to D.C. to lobby for copyright protection in fashion design has many people involved in the inexpensive recreation of fashions business worried. Besides obvious faults in lack of protection in fashion such as knockoffs and poor recreation of designs that could soil a brand's name, lack of protection has a huge effect on small or new designers trying to create a following. A proposed law would help to protect fashion designs in all mediums, shoes to shirts. Ultimately, the article concludes with a question, will copyrighting really change the fashion industry?
This article supports the my thesis as it expresses concerns in the fashion industry in regards to the implementation of copyright laws. As seen from both sides, both designers and those who knockoff will be equally advantaged and disadvantaged. It supports the notion that the fashion design cycle is ultimately not phased by knockoffs as it continues to grow to be one of the most lucrative. It is supportive of my thesis in that the article argues clearly that the what can be constituted as art versus craft and creative versus pirated is all in such blurred region.
tagged Design copyright fashion by jennifi ...on 28-NOV-06
Wilson, Eric. "O.K., Knockoffs, This is War." The New York Times. 30 March 2006.
 
This article is mostly about the "anti-copying" movement going on in D.C. Published in March of 2006, the author, Eric Wilson, comically and carefully discusses the world of copyright and fashion. With many quotations from famous designers like Zanotti, Von Furstenberg, Zac Posen, and others, Wilson identifies the hopes and fears of fashion designers and IP lawyers everwhere.
Wilson opens his article with talk of the "Splurge vs. Steal" columns in many contemporary fashion magazines, and his example, Marie Claire. Wilson implies that showing a runway look and a knockoff look that is incredibly less expensive is just the kind of media behavior that leads major designers to wage a full out war against knockoffs and those who create and buy them. Wilson talks about the Council of Fashion Designers of America, a new council and a movemet in the anti-copying campaign in D.C.
Of the Council and their aims Wilson says, "But for the Council of Fashion Designers the issue is black and white." Rather than calling imitation the sincerest form of flattery, as they have done for decades, leading designers are acknowledging that inexpensive copies — which they label acts of piracy — have negatively affected the luxury business." Luxury versus affordable has always been a dichotomy in the fashion industry, and without it, the classes of fashion would merge into a mess.


Wilson continues to discuss European laws on fashion copyright. The European Union has become more involved in fashion copyright protection and has extended a hand to designers from its member countries. Wilson also revisits the 1930's through the 1960's when stealing of patterns and designs was as omnipresent as fashion itself. Wilson closes his article with the argument of all things that should be protected, fashion should be protected by copyright law now becuase of the "disposable income" that most members of society now have. Thus, the importance of councils like the Council of Fashion Designers are necessary inorder to keep balance in a industry where piracy is as well accepted as season by season clothing style change. It is no longer desire, its necessity.

This article is very important to my thesis because it talks about fashion designers taking piracy and the lack of protection for fashion design to th D.C. to have their voices heard. Wilson cites interesting examples including fashion magazines that feature "steal v. splurge" pieces to help its readers obtain highfashion looks for affordable prices, however, willingly or unwillingly supporting the place of piracy in fashion. Wilson talks about the effects of copying and piracy on the "luxury" of the industry and in regards to my thesis, there would be an effect of sorts if fashion was not protected by copyright and vice versa.

tagged copyright fashion by jennifi ...on 27-NOV-06