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Wilson, Elizabeth. "Audrey Hepburn: fashion, film, and the 50s." in Women and Film: a Sight and Sound Reader, Eds. Pam Cook and Philip Dodd. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1993.


Elizabeth Wilson's piece is mainly a reflection on the admiration and fascination that the author felt for Audrey Hepburn as she was coming of age in the 1950s and 1960s. Wilson expands on this by asking why she felt this for Hepburn, rather than the Marilyn Monroes or Elizabeth Taylors of Hollywood. She traces this back to Hepburn's fashion, particularly as her style reflected her characters. Hepburn was the antithesis to the artificial, confined American domesticity promoted by Hollywood in that era, as evidenced by her aura of European sophistication. The apparel (and attitude) evident in her films, Wilson argues, were the forerunners of a new movement of minimalist and free youth fashion: a revolution, almost.
Transformation was a key theme in many of Hepburn's films, such as the chauffeur's-daughter into society-princess story of Sabrina. Even when these changes are visually represented by upgraded fashion, such as in Sabrina, Wilson holds that there is still an air of freedom surrounding Hepburn: her Givenchy dresses seemed modern, not matronly, and the fact that this actress had the choice of being outfitted by a true Parisian designer was a testament to the power Hepburn's style held over her audiences. Though many of her films may end with Hepburn's free-spirited characters succumbing to "adult life," Wilson contends that Hepburn showed young women of the era that they had more choices than simple domesticity, and created an entire style to prove it.


Moseley, Rachel. "Trousers and Tiaras: Audrey Hepburn, a Woman's Star." Feminist Review 71 (2002):37.
 
In this paper, Rachel Moseley examines the effects of the “Hepburn Look” in the 1950s, on the premise that Audrey Hepburn’s identity is forever bound to her clothing. Her female fans in particular looked to her to inspire their own Cinderella stories, as she often acted in her movies, and more specifically, it was her clothing that often pushed the narrative in the proper direction. Moseley describes in detail the pivotal train station scene of Sabrina. Upon her return from Paris, Sabrina waits at the station, in a scene filled with reminders of her newfound sophistication. She has a new poodle, Givenchy suit, and confident pose. The camera pans on her as it would on a fashion model, but her performance goes beyond simple a two-dimensional icon; her new attitude has spawned a new femininity, as expressed by the relationship between her body and her clothing. Yet her dress is not just an object for others, but it is an addition to the narrative, and the scenes are fixated on its details.
Moseley cites studies claiming that women forever tie their feelings about Hepburn to her clothing, and often describe their own Hepburn-like Cinderella stories in terms of their clothing and makeup. Though she projected sophisticated exoticness in some respects, in others she seemed attainable for the average female audience, in a way that other stars at the time did not. Hepburn’s short haircut, androgynous body, and effortless style offered an inspiration to free-spirited women.